Done the South so now a start on the North

Arrived early afternoon and set up camp in what is an extensive camping area with 4 toilet blocks, old toilets are Thai only and new blocks are Thai and western with good (cold) showers and a disabled toilet and shower.

Foreigner entry is a bit steep at 400b but as we plan to stay 3 or 4 nights it is OK per day.

First afternoon I headed for the nature trail to find the entrance blocked by new buildings being constructed, so climb over the work and head down an easy trail but not a lot to see other than trees and butterflies to take photos of but no problem when the butterflies are as beautiful as :



Paris Peacock.

Next morning I headed up the longer trails and decided to do the middle 4.5km trail, again not a lot to see other than where an elephant had slid down the hill and gone over the stream the night before, until I got up to the lookout at the highest point and started down through the pine trees where there were some birds high in the trees. Got my first bird photos with a new species for me a Neglected Nuthatch.



Afternoon I went for an explore and drove up the 14km road to Suan Son Phu Koom Kha, lots of animal sign, Gaur, Deer and Elephant and birds on the road and in the trees at the barrier across the road, as far as you can drive. Plan to come back tomorrow morning when hopefully there will be animals still out.

Next morning a Munjak ran across the road on the way up and there had been a herd of Elephants feeding along the road but they had gone before we got there, very messy eaters these things. On the way back a deer ran along the road for a way in front of us.

Called in at the HQ on the way back and were told there was a big mob of people were expected the next day a Saturday with all the housed booked and a lot of campers coming so we decided to cut our stay down to 3 nights and head for the next destination, also told us the best time for birds is when the trees are in fruit in the spring.



On the last morning I walked about 2 km down the Suan Son Ban Beak track (4km) which is a couple of km west of the park entrance and wow the place is full of elephants with fresh sign everywhere but they had all moved away from the track before I got there, probably just as well, lots of sign of other animals and more birds than I had seen anywhere else in the park and another new bird species for me an Eurasian Jay.



Salt lick come wallow on the Suan Son Ban Beak Trail



Where a (angry) bull Elephant has been attacking a bank, testing his strength, on the Suam Son Ban Baek trail.


General

A lot of construction going on making a lot of noise which has scared most of the birds and animals out of the area.

The loop trails are best walked starting from the entrance on the road to the youth camp, from there it is about a kilometer to where the first trail forks off to the left. It is then about another KM through open pine forest to the lookout on the center trail. I did not walk the top trail so cant say where it joined in. Leeches were bad on the bottom part of the trails up the stream but none higher up.

The trails on the south side of the road were the best for both animals and birds. It would be possible to do these trails without paying an entrance fee to the park as there was no check as we went drove past the ranger station on the way to Suan Son Phu Goom Kha and there is no ranger station on the road to the Ban Beak track.

The pines and grass area from the junction of the first trail to the lookout was the best place for birds on the north side of the park. Two flights of hornbill went over on different days couldn’t get a good look at them but by the sound of the wings they were great hornbill.

Birds
Eurasian Jay
Neglected Nuthatch
Greater Racket-tailed drongo
Spangled Drongo
Bronzed Drongo
Sooty-headed Bulbul
Large–billed Crow
Black-naped Oriole
Large Cockooshrike

Thats what they charged us Paul. Seems there has been an order from on high for the popular parks to up their charges, for instance at Phu Hin Rong Kla we were charged 500b and at Thung Salaeng Luang they wanted 500b so I said no thank you and moved on.

Phu Khaio Wildlife Sanctuary

Only 200b entrance this time, much better. A little rain as we arrived so we set up the tent in the Hong Bprachoom (Open sided meeting area) under cover and had a feed then went exploring to work out where to go in the morning.

Heavy fog in the morning made an early start impossible as there was no chance of getting any photos. When the mist had cleared somewhat we headed to a watchtower past a lake where there was an Osprey sitting on a dead tree in the lake, the first bird photo from here. At the watchtower there were several Red Cheeked Bulbul flying around and smaller birds in some bushes.



We then went for a drive along what is called a loop track but soon came to fallen trees across the road, walking from there we did not get far before more fallen trees so turned back to camp where there was a Crimson Sunbird flitting around some flowers, with a fair bit of patience I managed to get a reasonable photo of this small bird.



In the afternoon I went up a track alongside a lake close to the Royal residence to find leeches galore but there were also birds, Gibbons and a species of monkey ( Pig-tailed Macaque) I haven’t seen before so I persevered although picking leeches off the boots and pants before they could get to flesh was a full time job. This track is part of what is called the Queens Loop track which circles the Royal residence.



The see no evil one ?

It is possible to follow the road past accommodation and drive to a dam where there is a pump shed, (4WD) in the wet, this is part of the Queens Loop (other end). I did this the next morning after first having a look at what I thought was the track to Mon Lake, if it was it hasn’t been used for some time by other than deer and elephants. Several Pied Hornbill flew past me and I managed to get a photo of a small warbler.



I then walked the nature trail past a big fig tree on to a narrow walkway across a swamp this branched in the middle with the branches going either side of a lake on to the main road, a bit of pig sign on this track but nothing worth taking a photo of until I got back on the road where there was a Common Kingfisher on a dead tree and a Grey Heron on an the remains of an old shack.



Rain in the afternoon so I hung around camp getting some bird photos between showers. Rain most of the night and next day but managed to get some photos in the few brief clear periods.



Elongated Tortoise that was wandering on the road they are said to be endangered and this one was in danger of being run over so I redirected it into the forest

General

Lots of deer about Sambar, Hog Deer and Muntjak mostly on the open grass area but a few around the camp area with one particularly cheeky Sambar hind that we were told would raid camps and eat anything, this proved to be true as it ate my soap.

Got brief glimpses of 2 small flocks of Pied Hornbill but no photos unfortunately.

In the mornings there were a lot of birds in the camping area, White-crested Laughingthrush, Red-billed Blue Magpie predominant. A lot of Red-eared Bulbul present, these birds which are mostly seen in cages are also in Tat Mok NP which is part of the same forest complex.
A place well worth the visit in spite of the rain.

Birds

Arctic Warbler
Asian Fairy Bluebird
Black-shouldred Kite
Blyth’s Pipit
Brown Shrike
Chinese Pond Heron
Common Kingfisher
Crested Bulbul
Crimson Sunbird
Eastern Bushchat
Eurasian Jay
Greater Coucal
Greater Flameback
Grey Bushchat
Grey Heron
Green-billed Malkoha
Grey-headed Lapwing
Hooded Oriole
Large Cuckooshrike
Large-billed Crow
Lesser Yellownape
Osprey
Red Junglefowl
Red-billed Blue Magpie
Red-eared Bulbul
Simese Fireback
Spotted Dove
White-crested Laughingthrush

Phu Hin Rong Kla


Access is up a steep winding road through what must be one of the most difficult farming areas in the country with steep fields of cabbages, pineapples and corn with the occasional patch of dry land rice among large and small boulders. Entrance fee is a steep 500b for foreigners and the whole place is tourist orientated.

Main attractions are rock fields and the old communist HQ which is what most of the selfie takers go to see. There are 2 large restaurants and gift shops and a small museum.



Rock Field

We set up our tent under one of 2 large covered areas with attached kitchens. Toilets are good with both western and Thai toilets and good showers, cold water as usual, mains power.

Really only 2 places to go other than the camping area which is large with lots of tents set up waiting for occupants with several houses for rent
We walked round the rock fields in scattered rain but only saw a few bird species and not many of them.



I think I have this right. A place where they bury communists.


Only ended up staying 2 nights as five truck loads of Uni students arrived and wanted to use the area we were camped in for a cooking and dining area, seems they had booked the place and were not happy we were there.



Grey Wagtail

Birds

2 Barred Warbler
Blue Rock Thrush
Large-billed Crow
Flavescent Bulbul
Black Drongo
Grey Wagtail
White Wagtail
Grey-backed Shrike
Sooty-headed Bulbul
Spotted Dove
Olive-backed Pipit
House Martin

Phu Soi Dao National Park

Access is through a winding narrow road up a long valley flanked by pineapple fields which makes for a slow trip.



Pineapples are the main cash crop hearabouts

Entrance fee is 200b for foreigners 40b for Thai, Several good camping areas with the best toilets in camp ground 3 where we set up camp.
The whole place is surrounded by heavy forest with few access points, the main one is at a waterfall a kilometer up the road from the camp a fee is charged for access but when I walked up the road one morning the ranger on duty asked if I was camped and when I said yes told me to go ahead no charge. There is a restaurant and small shop selling snacks and gifts.



Entrance to the waterfall and trail to the top.



From the waterfall there is a track that leads to a high point which gives the park its name Phu Soi Dao which roughly translated means “Cliff where you can hold the stars”. This is a 8.5KM trek in for an overnight stay, porters are on hand to carry your gear no doubt for a fee, I didn’t ask as I was not intending to do the trek or stay. The only other access I found was an old road starting at the youth camp that led up the water supply pipeline. This is pretty overgrown with fallen bamboo so much so that I did not get to the water source before the track became very blocked.



Blue-throated Barbet

There is a road about 500m up the main road from the waterfall that I suspect in an access road to the top of the waterfall trail, it is concreted most of the way and is very steep 30 degrees plus in places. I struggled up this road to where it follows a ridge top but as I had not started till 1pm it was getting late by then so I didn’t follow to the end, a bit of wild pig sign and a lot of bird activity up there and I would like to get up there again starting early and spending the whole day but that will have to wait for another time.

The whole place has an ambience that I liked it has mains power and internet access but no phone coverage. The lack of access into the forest means it is well protected as are its residents which appear to be mainly birds and small mammals as I saw no indication of larger animals other than pigs although they could survive in remoter parts for this park is part of a quite large area of forest along the Lao border that includes our next stop Phu Suan Sai NP.

Most people that visit there go for the trek up the waterfall trail for an overnight camp we were told that there were about 60 people up there when we arrived on a Saturday but probably less on weekdays.

I saw a Forktail in the waterfall stream but failed to get a photo
Birds

Blue-throated Barbet
Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher
Olive-backed Pipit
Crested Bulbul
Asian-brown Flycatcher
Sooty-headed Bulbul
Grey Wagtail
White Wagtail
Spangled Drongo

Phu Suan Sai National Park

Only about 50KM of narrow winding road from Phu Soi Dao and 200b for entry. This park is known as a bird watching site and the place looks well kept with several camping areas and houses for rent. There is a small shop that sells snacks and drinks and a restaurant that does basic Thai Food. We set up camp in camp ground No1 close to the best toilet block. Then wandered around and found small Black-throated Sunbirds and Oriental White Eyes feeding on a flowering bush opposite the restaurant.

Black-throated Sunbird, male, Terrible things to try to get a photo of very small and only still for 2 to 3 seconds at the most.

Oriental White-eye, a little more coopoerative .


We then drove up the road past a hill tribe village just to see what we could see. Next morning after a windy night I walked up the road to the second bridge
There is a bird watching trail and a nature trail as well as a couple of hides set up for birding. I didn’t bother with either trail for with the help of a new friend I found the 2 hides, one is set up where Blue-naped Pita have been seen, with meal worms being fed out.


Golden Babbler


The other is at a bird bathing spot and this hide proved to deliver some amazing sights when I visited it in the evening and on the next two evenings with Ying. At times there were at least 10 species of small birds bathing and drinking at the same time with Babblers being prominent. This gave a problem as to where to point the camera as some of these birds were species that are not easy to find anywhere let alone photograph, Birds like Golden Babbler, Rufous-fronted Babbler, Red-billed Scimitar Babbler and the large Collared Babbler.

Collard Babbler


I spent most of the time there walking or driving the road or at the hides, at a parking spot just before the second bridge there is a big flame tree that was attracting a number of birds including Orange-bellied Leafbirds, the only leafbird species I had not seen before. There is also another of these trees at the second bridge but for some reason it doesn’t seem to have the same attraction.



Male Orange-bellied Leafbird.

The road down from the camp ground seemed to have the most bird activity early in the morning but also the most traffic with staff going to work. Flowering bushes across the road from the camp ground and across the road from the restaurant were attracting small birds but it needed persistence and patience to get photos.

Grey-eyed Bulbul.

A great place for birds and a place I hope to include in my itinerary on future trips to the north.

Birds

Orange-bellied Leafbirds
Blue-winged Leafbird
Ashy Drongo
Asian Brown Flycatcher
Black-naped Monarch
Black-throated Sunbird
Blue-throated Barbet
Bronzed Drongo
Brown-cheeked Fulvetta
Collard Babbler
Crested Bulbul
Oriental White Eye
Emerald Dove
Flavescent Bulbul
Golden Babbler
Grey-backed Shrike
Grey-eyed Bulbul
Grey-throated Babbler
Yellow-bellied Warbler
Rufous-collared Babbler
Spangled Drongo
Lessor Shortwing
Olive-backed Sunbird
Oriental Magpie Robin
Puff-throated Bulbul
Pinstripe Tit Babbler
Streaked Spiderhunter
Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher
White-bellied Epornis
White-throated Fantail
Siberian Blue Robin

Thung Salaeng Luang

Not impressed, Camp area on the other side of the Keck River with poor toilets up above with difficult if not dangerous (at night) access and a ford cum bridge over the river that would be impassable should the river rise so we headed up to the HQ area where there was supposed to be a camp site and put up the tent for the night across the road from a new toilet block with the intention of going to the south entrance of the park the next morning, only paid for the night camping no entrance fee. We were told by the staff at the HQ that few people stay for more than one night and I can see why. Unfortunate for I would have liked to explore down the road that runs down the middle of the park.

60km down the road we arrived at the south entrance to be told the entrance fee for foreigners was 500b. Mack gern bai ( to much) says I, no thank you we will give it a miss and move on to Tat Mok the next and last park on our list.

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Tat Mok National Park.

Part of the same forest complex as Nam Nao NP and Phu Khaio WS which we had already visited but much different from either as it is steep and mountainous, a road runs through the park for 21km to access to a waterfall and nature trail. Entrance fee 100b, that’s better, Camp site is 12km up the road into the forest where there are 2 camp sites and a ranger station.

We set up our tent in a covered area close to good toilets, western and Thai, just before a heavy shower of rain. When the rain had cleared I went for a walk up the road towards a waterfall for a KM or so seeing plenty of small birds and getting a few photos.

Little Spiderhunter

Next morning light rain started just before daylight and was to persist for most of the day I got in a short walk up the road in the morning and drove to the start of the waterfall, nature trail later but did not attempt the trail as there was an uninviting stream crossing to negotiate, might try it later we will see.


Went back down the road to a nature trail sign and drove up to what was once the park HQ and farther on to the start of the trail to Lan Chom Dao. Did not attempt to drive it at that stage as there was still rain around and the dirt track was very wet. Noted a side road to a conservation area, also a dirt road, for future reference.

Entrance to Lan Chong Dao.

Better weather today and after a walk up the road had a go at driving into the conservation area but didn’t get very far before stopping and walking part of the way without getting to the end of the road. Had another go the next morning, parked at the same place and walked to the nursery area where there will be access to forest trails. There were people working at the nursery, a tractor on the track and an armed patrol passed me on the back of a pickup.

Shikra

Went up the road to Lan Chom Dao and what a great view at the end so back to camp for Ying.

Petchabun from Lan Chom Dao

In the afternoon I went up to the visitor accommodation where there were birds feeding on fruiting trees and Striated Swallows flying in and out from under one of the buildings, seems they are roosting under there, a sheltered spot out of the weather and a probable nesting site although that species has never been confirmed to nest there, something anyone keen on extending bird knowledge could look for at nesting time.

General
Power in the covered area we stayed in and WIFI at the visitor center, place is clean and well maintained with friendly helpful staff. Free bikes to ride while you are there.

A place well worth visiting.

Birds

Oriental Turtle Dove
Striated Swallow
Golden-fronted Leafbird
Asian Fairy Bluebird
Sooty-headed Bulbul
Red eared Bulbul
Ashy Drongo
Black-naped Oriole
Shikra
Little Spiderhunter
Asian Brown Flycatcher
Eastern Stonechat
Pinstripe Tit Babbler
Puff-throated Babbler
Crested bulbul
2 Barred Warbler
Grey-throated Babbler
Grey-headed canary Flycatcher
White-throated Kingfisher
Moustached Barbet
Chestnut-headed Bee Eater
Flavescent Bulbul
Stripe-throated Bulbul
Bronzed Drongo
Common Lora
Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher
Taica Flycatcher
Blue-winged Leafbird
Blue Rock Thrush
Green-billed Malkoha
Streak-eared Bulbul


Thats all for that trip, got 19 new species of birds so well worth while.
We are off again on Thursday 24/11 to have a look at 6 of the parks on the north west starting at Klong Wong Chao NP. Reports on them when I get back close to Xmas.

Robby